Terri and Peter's RV Adventures

The name “Petoskey, MI” has never evoked romantic Hemingway images, couples gazing transfixed into one another’s eyes over a candlelit dinner with a backdrop horizon of deep blue endless waters. And yet, those things could have been possible in Petoskey, Hemingway’s childhood summer home. (Coincidentally, today marks 64 years ago that Hemingway shot and killed himself in Ketchum, ID.)

I learned something today. Petoskey and Harbor Springs are two charming, unassuming towns with character, Victorian homes, sprawling manicured lawns, and inviting shops (selling something other than fudge) and restaurants. They have local parks, music in the park at noon, and lively, walkable downtowns. Lake Michigan, or more specifically, the Traverse Bay of Lake Michigan serves as the backdrop of both towns.

Peter had been itching to go to Petoskey to explore his family roots. So I dropped him off at the Emmett County Courthouse to research documentation of the Bluford (Blumrosen and Rosenthal) side of his family. I took the dogs, parked in front of the Arts Center and wandered into town. I discovered the City Park Grill, a restaurant that claims to be a favorite haunt of Hemingway. With a small outdoor patio, the dogs were admired by passers by on the sidewalk while I ate a pretty decent hamburger.

I was prepared to wander around for a few more hours but Peter had other places he wanted to visit. So we reconnected and headed to the Greenwood Cemetery to find the headstones with the stones on top (eg the Jewish section of the cemetery). That yielded no leads so off we went to the History Museum in nearby Harbor Springs, a beautiful drive along the bay, about 25 minutes north west of Petoskey.

Harbor Springs was another surprise. A main road leads into town that’s lined with Victorian style homes, mostly white with black trim but a few with other more gaudy yellow with red trim color combinations. Luxurious, mowed front yards draped down to the street with no fencing between them. The road led into the main part of town which was charming and felt like money, but not over the top. I have no idea what the demographics of either of these towns are. I’m just reporting the vibe they gave me.

In some ways, these towns felt more like my hometown of Highland Park (minus the Jews) than any other towns we’ve been to on this trip. Not like that’s a desired objective, but it certainly breeds a sense of belonging, an “I know this place” comfort level and while I’ve loved our explorations on this trip, it’s been a long time since I was in a town that had the kind of shops, services, leafy tree lined streets and overall environment I know deep in my bones. Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island and Halifax, Nova Scotia had a similar familiarity.

While Peter explored the museum, the dogs and I found a great market (well, I did) and then an equally great park for Lily to air herself out with chuck it throws.

Returning to our campsite, I’m starting to appreciate the peace, privacy and lack of touristy intrusions. It’s nice to go to a bustling place if I want but then have the option to leave.

I’m not sure what tomorrow will bring but I’m enjoying learning about this part of the country. Having grown up on the western side of Lake Michigan, this is another angle on life in the midwest and the Great Lakes that I’m appreciating and looking forward to learning more. Michigan is growing on me. Not that I could endure winters here, but I’m enjoying its different facets, its down to earth people who are also very friendly and helpful. I’m looking forward to learning more.