Once again, bear with me, no photos for now. This was a day we needed, especially after yesterday’s wandering in the desert (ironically on our 40th day, fortunately not our 40th year–wandering Jew reference). It started out cloudy and chilly but no rain and after a leisurely breakfast, a few deep breaths, coffee and meditation, I was able to secure a new MacBook Air in Sydney, Nova Scotia that’s been set aside for me through Tuesday. Sitting outside, staring out at the Codroy Valley and wide, wavy band of the Codroy River adjacent to our campsite, we could exhale. We’re finally using our outdoor camp chairs and it feels so luxurious just to sit.
While this campground is spacious, it’s turning into a Mr. Rogers’ Neighborhood. Without being too nosey,we’re engaging in conversations and meeting wonderful neighbors on three sides (the fourth is the river). One is a couple from Nova Scotia who immediately said that if they were home when we swing by their town, they’d invite us in for a lobster dinner (they’ll be in Newfoundland). They’re fun, friendly and seem to know everything about this place’s history.
They talked about when the British were over extended in blood and treasure fighting the French here, they decided to tax the colonies which resulted in the Boston Tea Party and the US Revolution. I didn’t know that. And they referenced the connection between the French Quebecois, the Acadians and the Cajuns of Louisiana. I wasn’t aware of that connection, either.
Speaking of connections, Lily is the great connector. Once we start throwing a ball for her, she looks around for a soft touch and the next thing you know, she’s playing catch with anyone who’ll give in to her look and the ball she’s dropped at their feet. She brings such joy to people and then we start talking and we’ve made friends.
It is quite peaceful and relaxed here. People are outside enjoying the sun and mild temperatures. No one is on their phone (except us), and it harkens to an earlier time of people sitting on their porches simply taking in the scene and being open to meeting and chatting it up with strangers. Life is simple here in the Grand Codroy Campground.
There’s a tour group here of US campers and apparently they’re being treated a traditional Newfoundland music and entertainment at the campground. It consists of drinking hard core liquor called “screechers” and kissing a codfish (only in Newfoundland). I haven’t made my way down there yet and not sure I want to. But if I do, I’ll give a full report tomorrow.
Have I mentioned that there are just over a half million people in Newfoundland? It’s so amazing that so few people live in such a large space but based on what we saw driving around the island, it’s entirely believable.
I decided to take Lily and explore the Codray Valley. There are two “grocery” stores. I put that in quotes because a 7-11 has more groceries than these stores; well maybe that’s a slight exaggeration. But these stores consist mostly of canned, nonperishable goods, items you’d find in a drugstore and hardware store and huge white box freezers containing frozen meat, frozen vegetables and other items you wouldn’t find anywhere in the SF Bay Area. The only fresh produce are root vegetables: carrots, potatoes, onions and beets. Nothing organic, of course. The only fruit is apples and bananas.
Everyone, campers and locals alike, are incredibly friendly. Campers are intrigued that we’re from California and that we have an Airstream. Locals just seem welcoming and glad we’re here.
Lily and I found a provincial park that took us down to a long stretch of beach along the St. Lawrence Seaway. It’s very shallow in parts and I threw her chuck it ball a million times. The backdrop on one side is a horizon of water, looking like the ocean. On the other sides are mountains, some with remnants of snow, the rest colored in a rich assortment of greens. Inland, there’s an outlet perfect for marsh and wetland birds, again, in the valley surrounded by hills.
I thought I’d worn out Lily but no chance. Before, during and after barbecuing chicken, she’s been working the crowds on all sides, charming everyone, making them laugh and getting them to throw her balls.
It’s supposed to rain tomorrow. Then again, the weather reports here aren’t all that accurate. I hope to drive up to the oldest lighthouse in North America, right along the St. Lawrence Seaway. We’ll see. It’s our last full day in Newfoundland before we head back to Cape Breton, Nova Scotia and then Prince Edward Island. Thank you for following along!
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