What started out as a hard rain and foggy drive from New Brunswick into Quebec, turned into a bright sunny day with the heat and humidity turned onto high. Thick pine forests followed us the whole way until we neared Quebec City where farmland took over. I could see a silhouette of hills on the other said of the St. Lawrence Seaway but otherwise the land was flat. I was glad to leave Grand Falls and ready for a touch of city life. The last larger town or city we were in was Halifax which seems so long ago. Before that, Cleveland. So we were ready for a little city action.




It was a short three hour, 220 mile drive and we eased into the comfort of a KOA, with many amenities including pool, hot tub and a concrete pad with patio tables. The best part (practically speaking) is that they have a propane filling station and we’re down a tank so that will be really convenient to swing by on our way out. We go through quite a bit of propane as we’ve used it for heat (no more, I’m guessing), hot water and cooking. This is our second huge tank we’ve used on this trip.
But onto the fun part. After regrouping, the four of us took off for the ferry, about a half hour from camp. It’s a 12 minute ferry ride to the old city and costs $7 per person each way. Not bad. We parked the truck at the ferry and were on foot once we got to the old city. Our plan was to simply walk around, get a feel for the place, have dinner and make it back by dark. All of that happened. But more. It was so fun and stimulating being in a place so markedly different from anything we’ve seen on this trip. It truly feels like we’re in France.






As soon as we crossed into Quebec, not only did the time change (we’re now on ET and no longer 4 hours ahead of PT on Atlantic Time), but the language turned decidedly French. No English on road signs, billboards, anywhere. I like it. While I haven’t studied or spoken French in 50 years, many words came right back to me and I can understand just about everything I read and about one out of every ten spoken words. I love the sound of the language and remain forever impressed by most everyone here who fluidly switches back and forth from English to French and vice versa. What a gift that is.
We met a guy on the ferry (thanks to Lily, of course) wearing a San Diego Padres baseball hat. He’s from Quebec but visited a friend in San Diego. He spent the entire ferry ride (all 12 minutes) telling us about places to go and threw in some local politics as well. The Canadians we’ve spoken to don’t understand how the US could elect Trump a second time (I have no words) and generally don’t like their own government either. Carney was elected at the last minute as an anti-Trump candidate but there’s dissatisfaction with the high taxation rate, high cost of living and a questioning of what they’re receiving for their taxes.
Most of the old city is up on a hill so climb we did, on cobblestone streets lined with businesses, old limestone (?) buildings, many outdoor cafes with red umbrellas filled with people watching the people go by. Cali was going to be our limiting factor but she motored up the hills until we reached the top: the Chateau Frontenac being a centerpiece of our destination.
I’m sure we walked past a lot of historically important places but the point of today’s visit was to simply walk and experience the city, which we did. The people we met (largely through Lily of course), were incredibly friendly. The city’s alive with music, artists sketching portraits and musicians playing on street corners. It was vibrant with life and the crowds were polite, accommodating and simply enjoying the day. It reminded me of the four trips to Europe that I took with my parents as a child. They taught me how to appreciate different cultures and to look at places with an open mind and an artist’s eye. I deeply appreciate them for that lifelong gift.





We ended up at a wonderful outdoor restaurant, La Buchette. They gave the dogs water before serving us and while we were eating, gave them doggie ice cream treats. Our food was fantastic: I had trout that was placed on a bed of some kind of heavenly corn soufflé, root vegetables and bok choy. Peter had pasta bolognese that he loved and we shared a julienne vegetable salad with a maple syrup vinagrette. Then, because all of their desserts had gluten, they gave me a coupon for a free ice cream next door which simply extended our enjoyment of the day. It was so fun, decadent and relaxing playing tourist. The dogs took a while to settle down and become “cafe dogs” but they were the source of many oohs and aahhhs, hugs and kisses.





Returning to our campsite, we’re all ready to collapse for the night but it’s been such a full, enriching day. Just absorbing the energy, culture, and vibrancy of a European-feeling city was soul-filling. Tomorrow, we’ll go back for more. Maybe a walking tour and Peter wants to go to the Musée de Civilisation. I may have to hang out at a café with the dogs, drinking coffee and watching people. Oh well. The sacrifices we make.
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